Craig Cywarch

Craig CywarchCraig Cywarch (aka Craig Cowarch) is a massive complex cliff-line located above our Club Hut (Bryn Hafod). This vast rambling mountainside, interspersing sheets of rock with towering gullies and heather terraces, will ideally suit mountaineers who can brave the “full mountain day out”, or those who will find the isolated clean walls and revel in some hidden gems. The climbing varies from long rambling easy classics to marginally accessible extreme test pieces and where polish is unlikely to be a problem.

Mini-Guide

The Meirionnydd guidebook is a bit out of date now, so a Mini Guide v6 has been produced and updates will be uploaded as and when they happen.

Reports from weekends of  11 Mar 16, Apr 16, 15-17 Jul 16,  7-9 Apr 17   

The next Crag Clean (we’re going to call it “Vertical Gardening”) is scheduled for the tbc if you’re interested please contact Paul Hyland for more info.

Crag Cleaning the how to.

Routes that are climbable (19 Aug 18):

 Name  Buttress  Grade  Pitches
Will o’ the Wisp  Tap y Graig  HVD***  6
Sweet Baby James  Tap y Graig  HVS 5a**  2
Mud Slide Slim  Tap y Graig  VS 4c*  3
Bluebell Babylon  Tap y Graig  VS 4b**  4
First Anniversary  Esgair Felen Isaf  Mod*  2
Twink (*)  Esgair Felen Isaf  HVD**  2
Restoration (*)  Esgair Felen Isaf  S 4a*  2
Doom  Craig Llywelyn  VS 4c***  4
Acheron  Craig Llywelyn  HVS 5a**  6
South Face Crack  NNE Towers  HS 4b  1
       

* There are 3 variations between these routes.

Next to be cleaned are:

 Name  Crag  Grade
     
 A Touch of Class  Tap y Graig VDiff
 Oread  Tap y Graig VS
 Bundu  NNE Towers VS
 Wig Walk  NNE Towers VS
 Recuperation  Esgair Felen Isaf VDiff
     

Apart from the routes above an effort to clear the path Llwbyr Llwelyn and to force a way to the top of Esgair Felen to enable a clean and ascent of Shade of Pale will be attempted on the next visit.

4 Comments

  1. hello,
    We did The Purge on Tap y Gigfran on Saturday. It was a bit of a hideous bramble thrash to get there by traversing from the right and the approach up to the bottom of the route was a bit exciting. The route is really good though. We thought E3. Pegs on pitch one crumbled on clipping. It’s dry as a bone but quite a lot of dry lichen some of the moves out of the niche on P1 quite exciting. Much cleaner now. P2 wasn’t too dirty. We descended from underneath the left hand crag and it was much more pleasant. cheers

  2. We have spent a few days over the last couple of years trying to get to the bottom of the routes on Tap Y Gigfran and tbh we have given up due to the sheer amount of vegetation and hence why we are just concentrating on the other buttresses. As far as i know and I don’t climb anywhere near E3 is that Purge hasn’t been done in prob 10 years!! And those pegs had prob been in since the 70’s.

    Thanks for the post, though I doubt the Club will get around to establishing the path to Tap y Gigfan any time soon! Great effort by the way, respect.

  3. We climbed First Anniversary, Twink and Will-o-the Wisp over the last weekend and the crag was probably as dry as it’s been for many, many years.
    Very surprising not to see anyone else climbing , apart from probably Roger and co. above, and a local climber doing some crag cleaning.
    I would agree about the approach paths – covered in bracken etc. which rather detracts from the overall experience and meaning it’s quite an effort to actually get to the routes.
    I climbed quite a bit at Cowarch between 1976 and 1990 and recall the routes and paths being much clearer than they are now.
    The 3 routes we did are described as “climbable” and there’s still some vegetation on those, so I shudder to think what the “routes for consideration” are like now and especially I’ve done several of them in the past and remember them being quite OK.
    I do wonder just how often people climb here these days

    • Hi Bob, I spent 4 weekends clearing Twink last year! Basically from top to bottom needed “digging out” Hense the reason why we are just concentrating on just the nearest/easiest to get to. The guy who was doing some cleaning of Mud Slide Slim is a local chap. And we are working together to get some more routes open. I think with this hot weather the North facing routes (Doom & Acheron) are getting some attention.

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