Craig Cywarch

Craig CywarchCraig Cywarch (aka Craig Cowarch) is a massive complex cliff-line located above our Club Hut (Bryn Hafod). This vast rambling mountainside, interspersing sheets of rock with towering gullies and heather terraces, will ideally suit mountaineers who can brave the “full mountain day out”, or those who will find the isolated clean walls and revel in some hidden gems. The climbing varies from long rambling easy classics to marginally accessible extreme test pieces and where polish is unlikely to be a problem.

Mini-Guide

The Meirionnydd guidebook is a bit out of date now, so a Mini Guide v4 has been produced and updates will be uploaded as and when they happen.

Reports from weekends of  11 Mar 16, Apr 16, 15-17 Jul 16,  7-9 Apr 17   

The next Crag Clean (we’re going to call it “Vertical Gardening”) is scheduled for the tbc if you’re interested please contact Paul Hyland for more info.

Crag Cleaning the how to.

Routes that are climbable (10 Apr 17):

 Name  Buttress  Grade  Pitches
Will o’ the Wisp  Tap y Graig  HVD***  6
Sweet Baby James  Tap y Graig  HVS 5a**  2
Mud Slide Slim  Tap y Graig  VS 4c*  3
First Anniversary  Esgair Felen Isaf  Mod*  2
Twink (*)  Esgair Felen Isaf  HVD**  2
Restoration (*)  Esgair Felen Isaf  S 4a*  2
Doom  Craig Llywelyn  VS 4c***  4
Acheron  Craig Llywelyn  HVS 5a**  6
South Face Crack  NNE Towers  HS 4b  1
       

* There are 3 variations between these routes.

Next to be cleaned are:

 Name  Crag  Grade
 Bluebell Babylon  Tap y Graig VS
 A Touch of Class  Tap y Graig VDiff
 Oread  Tap y Graig VS
 Bundu  NNE Towers VS
 Wig Walk  NNE Towers VS
 Recuperation  Esgair Felen Isaf VDiff
     

Apart from the routes above an effort to clear the path Llwbyr Llwelyn and to force a way to the top of Esgair Felen to enable a clean and ascent of Shade of Pale will be attempted on the next visit.

4 Comments

  1. I remember A Touch of Class. There were some other routes of similar length and grade: Jack o’ Diamonds; AGM (V Diff with S variation direct start and finish which somehow got omitted from the guidebook. It took a ramp line below Styx, which was a nice MVS. Lethe was a nice Diff up the side of N Gully.

    • Hi Peter, Thanks for the feed back, i’ll add those three(AGM, Lethe and Styx) to the list, and have a closer look at Sawdl y Graig when i’m next up there. They are all listed in the Meirionnydd book and shows the line. The others are already down to being cleaned.

      • Hi Paul, good work on the ‘mini guide’…

        Couple of comments/points of interest..

        Keelhaul was actually climbed clean on either the 2nd or 3rd ascent – I took the in situ pegs out and led it.. They may have been replaced?

        Vulcan – to my knowledge has never had a 2nd ascent…

        Cheers…

    • Hi Pete, I also remember that ‘The Arch’ was quite a steep/clean route too…?

      Hope you’re well ..?

      Cheers.. Klem

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