Will o’the Wisp – HVD***

95m, 6 pitches. This is a popular route due to its inclusion in Ken Wilson’s Classic Rock book.  A rising traverse left across the buttress.  Start at the middle of the buttress at a break in the vegetation. The pitches are optional and many are done together, i.e. 1-2 and 3-4.

  1. 25m.  Follow the initial weakness towards a small tree and a large block.  After the block, climb a rightward-slanting slab to a short wall and take this to a good stance to the right.
  2. 8m.  Climb an obvious crack above to a bulge, and then traverse up a ramp to an obvious ledge where a nut-slot belay can be taken. Just above you there should be a small square block of stone protruding from the cliff face.
  3. 15m.  Follow the ledge leftwards around a bulge in the rock-face, passing a small spike to gain a short ramp. Go up this with little difficulty and move delicately across a slab to an obvious crack. Climb the crack to the next ledge and set up a belay.
  4. 17m.  Walk along the ledge and step over a gap to a stance under a small overhang. Carry on traversing left along the gradually slanting rock-face which has some good holds. Finally climb up to a ledge close to the arête under an overhanging wall.
  5. 8m.  Move to the arête and feel around the corner for the jug in a very exposed position. Climb on good holds to a large ledge and a tree to belay from.
  6. 18m. The last pitch is a series of large square blocks. Climb up the blocks at first rightwards then leftwards towards a small tree in a crack. Finish by climbing the crack.  A nut slot on the right and a thread on the left for anchors.
Will o’the Wisp